Xinjiang (also spelled Sinkiang) is a vast region in northwestern China, bordering Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Mongolia, and Russia. In Oriental rug literature, the region is traditionally referred to as East Turkestan — distinguishing it from West Turkestan (modern Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, and surrounding areas).

The region's rug weaving developed in three major oasis cities along the historic Silk Road, each with distinctive design traditions:

Khotan (Hotan)

  • The most prolific of the three Xinjiang weaving centers
  • Best known for medallion-and-pomegranate designs and lattice-pattern rugs
  • Distinctive color palettes featuring soft golds, blues, and ivory alongside red
  • Famous for silk Khotans — silk pile on cotton foundation, often with metal-thread highlights
  • Antique Khotans are some of the most collected East Turkestan weavings

Yarkand

  • Located in southwestern Xinjiang
  • Known for distinctive design vocabulary including stylized pomegranate trees, vase motifs, and gul-influenced patterns
  • Often features softer pastel color palettes than other regional production
  • Strong tradition of silk and silk-mix rugs

Kashgar

  • Located in southwesternmost Xinjiang, near the historic crossroads of the Silk Road
  • Produces rugs blending Chinese, Central Asian, and Persian design influences
  • Color palettes range from soft pastels to saturated reds
  • Often features medallion-and-corners layouts adapted from Persian models

Common characteristics across East Turkestan production:

  • Lower knot density than Persian workshop rugs (typically 80–200 KPSI)
  • Cotton foundation, wool or silk pile
  • Distinctive carved pile in some production — the pile is sculpted at different heights to emphasize design elements
  • Cross-cultural design vocabulary — drawing on Chinese (cloud bands, peonies, foo dogs), Central Asian (geometric medallions), and Persian (curvilinear floral) traditions
  • All-wool construction in many pieces; silk pieces are particularly prized

Why Xinjiang/East Turkestan matters:

This region represents a unique meeting point of multiple rug-weaving traditions — Chinese imperial influence from the east, Central Asian Turkic traditions from the north and west, Persian influence from the southwest, and Mughal Indian influence from the south. As a result, Xinjiang rugs offer a visually distinctive look that doesn't quite belong to any of those traditions alone — making them particularly interesting for collectors and designers seeking something that reads as "Oriental" without being strictly Persian, Turkish, or Chinese in character.

Antique Xinjiang rugs from the 18th and 19th centuries are increasingly collected, with prices that have appreciated significantly in recent decades as Western interest in the region's distinctive aesthetics has grown.